This post was last updated on July 10th, 2020 at 09:18 am
You often hear the residents of Flores talk about Koka Beach. They are proud of it. Many of them say this bay is one of the top destinations you’ll find on the island. We expected a lot of tourists to see a lot of tourists there, but surprisingly this turned out not to be the case at all. There were only a handful of people, so we almost had this paradise all to ourselves.
Can it get any better?
When we saw the white sand in front of us, we immediately understood why Koka Beach is described by many as the most beautiful beach in Flores. Two bays are separated by a giant rock, although they are strictly connected in a kind of W-shape. Both sides are adjacent to rugged cliffs, which – if it has rained a little – turn beautifully green. There are some fishing boats on the sand here and there, and slightly behind them are palm trees with coconuts. Coconuts that you can drink while lying down on the beach with a view of the turquoise water.
Definitely don’t skip Koka Beach. As a nature lover, this is the place where you want to be. Moreover, it is an ideal spot if you have just been in noisy destinations like Moni or Maumere, and need some rest.
It Takes Some Effort to Get There
We drove from Moni to Koka with a shared car. The driver drops you on the main road, after which you have to travel another 2 kilometers to get to the beach. You can do this on foot, or you can jump on the back of a local who also happens to go that way. This short ride costs 5,000 IDR (~ US$0.35), or nothing, depending on the local.
If you choose to drive yourself, keep in mind that this shortcut is pretty bad. At least the last part. Bumpy, loose large chunks of stone, pits, and sand that blow up make it quite a challenge to arrive unscathed. We recommend driving slowly.
There is a good chance that you will be approached on the main road by “Cowboy Ricky”, a colorful local who runs an eco homestay and is happy to invite you to his place. We had a little chat with him, and we thought it was great to see that he built all of his accommodation himself. He also grows his own fruit and vegetables in the landscaped garden. However, since we preferred to stay on Koka Beach, we decided to continue walking.
Locals will normally ask for a small entrance fee. However, if you stay at Blasius Homestay (read more below), this is not the case. Nothing has been asked of us.
Spectacular View From the Hill
The rock that divides Koka Beach in two is also the place with the best view of both bays. After paying the 5,000 IDR (~ US$0.35), you walk up a bamboo staircase where you can then enjoy great panoramic views. It is even more beautiful from above than when you are downstairs.
If you look at both beaches at the same time, it looks like a bird opening its wings.
The waves are intense and wild, the sand is a mix of gold and white and the color of the water is exactly what you hope for when you think of a tropical beach. The hilly landscape completes the whole scene.
In our case it was also true that both bays were almost empty, this always seems to be the case during the week. Try to avoid Sundays, because it gets quite busy. At least that’s what the locals told us.
Eat Grilled Tuna at the Beach
The sun slowly set and we decided to sit at the only restaurant that was present. And we wouldn’t regret this. The owner, Blasius, is a super nice guy. He also runs the accompanying homestay.
Blasius goes out to fish at night. The catch is then the menu of the day. We had a choice between tuna and red snapper. The mega large grilled tuna we chose was one of the best meals we have eaten in Indonesia. It reminded us of the fish market on Karimunjawa.
And with the billowing sea in front of us and a twinkling starry sky above, we couldn’t have ended our day any better.
We also read some negative reviews on Tripadvisor. For example, someone writes that Blasius is “fake” and is after “your money.” We personally have never experienced this for a moment, so it is good not to always rely on that one negative experience that you read on the internet.
Sleeping in a Cabin
As we mentioned, Blasius and his wife also have a homestay to receive guests. They are simple wooden huts with good mattresses. We thought it was a very nice experience to sleep at the beach, with the soothing sound of the sea behind us. And of course, the creeping geckos that have an almost hypnotic effect on us. We always fell asleep because of the soothing sounds.
This is in contrast to the crowing sound of roosters, by the way. And, as you may already suspect, these were also included. Two of them. Fortunately, we only heard them at 5 a.m. and after that, we could sleep through the night. In Bali, we sometimes heard them making noise all night.
In the morning you get breakfast, where we especially liked the large amount of papaya and mango that we got. The coffee was not great, although – given our previous experiences – we expected little of it anyway.
Do not expect luxury in this accommodation. Everything is downright basic and electricity is only available in the evening and morning, as they work with a generator. If you want you can also rent a tent at Blasius and camp on the beach.
Next Destination – Maumere or Moni
After a night on Koka Beach, we traveled to Maumere, a town located in the east of Flores. You can snorkel and go island hopping there, or, for example, climb the Egon volcano. If you go the other way, Moni is a must-visit. You will find the beautiful crater lakes of Kelimutu there.